Palm-dotted white beaches and turquoise-blue water are easy to find in the Caribbean . What makes an island special is its culture. Arguably one of the most interesting spots for the active and curious American traveler, who also wants beach time, is Guadeloupe

( www.guadeloupe-fr.com ).

 Perched just below the “shoulder” of the curved group of islands that make up the Antilles , Guadeloupe , along with its more developed and commercial Caribbean sister Martinique , is a department of France , just as Hawaii is a U.S. state. That gives it the first-world charm of decent roads, modern grocery stores and, most of all, a relatively prosperous populace. Although tips are appreciated, the “higgling” of Jamaica and the open panhandling of Dominica are nowhere in evidence. And in recent years, American tourists are increasingly welcome.

 I first visited Guadeloupe almost 15 years ago, and immediately fell in love with its stunning vistas and French accent. If you don't know any French, you will have a harder time, although there is a general effort by many businesses to have English-speaking employees.

The butterfly-shaped island is divided into two “wings,” Grande Terre and Basse Terre. This article will talk about some of the exciting aspects of the former, while the next article will take up the equally interesting latter.

Grande Terre, which despite its name (“Large Land”) is actually smaller and lower than Basse Terre (“Low Land”), has everything from deserted beaches to casinos, from spectacular natural cliffs to fancy restaurants and nightlife. Its principal resort spots are the towns of Le Gosier (“The Throat”) and Saint Francois; in the smaller village of Sainte Anne between them, there is a Club Med (for a write-up on visiting this and other Club Meds for a day, see my earlier column at www.photoandtravel.com/spotlightmarch.html ), and my favorite hotel, La Toubana, whose deck overlooking cliffs and foamy seas is definitely worth a stop at cocktail hour ( www.frenchcaribbean.com/HotelLaToubana.html ).

Le Gosier has an amazing range of accommodations all within easy reach of each other and the water, making it perfect for tourists in search of entertainment. Its casino buzzes after 11 p.m. (be sure to bring your passport, or they won't let you in), and a stroll along the beach on a weekend lets you listen in on a dizzying variety of music, from Caribbean steel drums to American rock.

Perhaps the most interesting hotel in the cluster is the newly built Karibea le Clipper, shaped like a cruise ship. Its “cabins” have portholes and its dining deck looks out over the water (find out more at www.karibea.com/hotelLeClipper.htm). One can often find a thriving bar scene at the nearby Creole Beach Hotel (www.antilles.ch/guadeloupe/hotels/creoleb.htm). And the town itself is filled with restaurants ranging from laid-back to formal. My favorite is Le Bananier, known particularly for its bananas flambé dessert. While service tends to be slow, presentation is stunning. Many dishes come with a rainbow of pureed vegetables for an intriguing mix of tastes.

For a more relaxed atmosphere but fairly pricey accommodations, try Le Meridien in St. Francois (www.antilles-info-tourisme-com/guadelopue/coco.htm). Although it is notable for its golf course, St. Francois is built around a marina in which huge sailboats and small power boats rock gently side by side. Lining the marina is an attractive mix of small restaurants; one can browse menus, then sip a glass of wine while watching the dive and tour boats go in and out. Tours to neighboring islands are plentiful; if you're interested in scuba diving, check out www.3routes.com/ca/guad/ .

Because of its position, Guadeloupe has an Atlantic side as well as a Caribbean side, which means sometimes brisk winds and dark blue waters in addition to Caribbean turquoise. From St. Francois , it is an easy bike ride (rent them at Dom Location (www.guadeloupe-fr.com/actatg/-1645/), or drive to one of the most spectacular features of the island, Pointe des Chateaux (Chateau Point). Huge boulders that seem to form a fantastical sea monster thrust into the ocean. You can hike up the highest one, the sea creatures “head,” on which a giant cross invites passers-by to light a candle. From the top, a spectacular view includes the nearby island of Desirade (“Desired One”).

 It's an experience that is topped in my mind only by Portes d'Enfer (Gates of Hell), a stunning cliff-flanked inlet in the less touristy north part of the island. An hour's drive from St. Francois through banana and sugar cane farms brings you to this unexpected spot complete with beach restaurant. The sight is a composite of opposites: a long, narrow sheet of shallow water that ends in crashing surf, as the ocean strives to enter the bay. Swimmers near the beach can feel the fierce tug of the surf, and watch the waves pound the rocks where the calm water meets the Atlantic .

An inviting path leads hikers to a long, well-marked track along high cliffs, where every turn awes the viewer with sheer drops, deep blue water, sudsy surf. If you go far enough, you will see far below you “Le Souffleur,” (the Whistler), a rock formation that shoots spray into the air through a narrow hole like a petrified whale.

  Next time: the bustling city of Point-a-Pitre and the volcano of Basse Terre.

  Happy Traveling!

photos: Allemanda.jpg (that's the name of the flower); Pointe.jpg (Pointe des Chateaux); cliff.jpg; euros.jpg; stfranc.jpg (that's saint francois)

You may e-mail me at:

EGraham@photoandtravel.com