The ocean was a fierce, sparkling blue, and the November wind had the flags dancing. But inside Carney's Restaurant, the jazz was hotter than July.  It was last fall's Cape May Jazz Festival, and the charming seaside town astride the southern tip of New Jersey was awash in music.

 This month, Cape May will present its 21st celebration of the semi-annual event that has become a must-hear for jazz enthusiasts.  First held in April of 1994, when it presented three bands at a single venue, the festival has mushroomed into a celebration that involves almost a dozen venues and some 35 concerts, jams and workshops.  Quaint buses like tram cars roll between performances ranging from large concert halls to intimate bar settings, from big-name greats to lesser known talents.

 Last November, opening night at Convention Hall filled quickly with a mixed crowd of aging connoisseurs and young enthusiasts, all eager to hear trumpeter Maynard Ferguson's Big Bop Nouveau Band. This legendary great, who started 60 years ago as a teenager leading warm-up bands, quickly rose to fame with the Stan Kenton Orchestra for his extraordinary technique and commanding upper register.  He is particularly known for pushing ahead the big-band sound. Rather than re-creating music of bygone eras, he incorporates bebop, funk and fusion into his performances.  His recordings have gone gold and earned him three Grammy nominations, and his penchant for encouraging young musicians has earned him praise in jazz circles.

All this was much in evidence at the fast-paced performance in front of a capacity crowd in the large, simple seaside hall. The trademark high, swirling sound was much in evidence, as Ferguson took flight on tunes like “Waltz for Angela” and “Darn That Dream.” But he proved he could still change it up, too, for example in the mellow, elegant opening of “Dream,” before the fireworks began.

And he also frequently took a back seat as his young band members took the spotlight. Particularly notable was trombonist Reggie Watkins, whose virtuosity rivaled that of the leader in the opening duet of “Waltz.”

Up against Ferguson that night were the Carla Cook Quartet and famed singer Jimmy Scott.   Cook performed in the more intimate Savannah Key bar at the Marquis de Lafayette Hotel (smaller venues are donated, so the festival asks that attendees purchase a drink or that dollar equivalent of food per set). In contrast to the brassy grandeur at Convention Hall, Cook's warm vocals were backed by the elegant and delicate tones of pianist Darryl Ivey, the interesting and varied patterns of percussionist Steve Kroon, the subtle sounds of stand-up bassist Kenny Davis, and the never-overwhelming rhythms of drummer Mark McLean.

Her repertoire was eclectic, ranging from a characteristic rendition of Duke Ellington's “Something ‘Bout Believing” to Cyndi Lauper's “Time After Time,” complete with a rich tapestry of piano notes leading to a full jazz riff at the end. The performance was neatly tailored to the audience, including an enthusiastic audience singalong.

Meanwhile, vocalist Jimmy Scott was wowing an enthusiastic and responsive crowd who clearly had followed his unique delivery since the legendary Billy Holiday named him her favorite singer. His band, the Jazz Expressions, provided a fascinating backup, with dancing piano, poignant bass and a soaring sax that moved from virtuoso licks to a gentle duet on “Motherless Child.”

And that was only the beginning of the first night of an event that was the brainchild of founders Carol Stone and Woody Woodland. Inspired by the Rehobeth Beach jazz festival in Delaware , the two were determined to foster a similar event in Cape May . The newly formed Board of Trustees of the Cape May Jazz Festival met in January 1994, and the Friends of Cape May Jazz, Inc. was incorporated in February 1994. The festival offers acoustic jazz featuring nationally prominent musicians ranging from Clark Terry and Denis DiBlasio to Etta Jones to Chuck Mangione. there is also a strong educational component, with master classes in which anyone can play (they just ask that you be on time); panel discussions; scholarships; and the Cape May County Allstar Band, which since 1998 has allowed county students perform each April.

  That festival, to be held this year April 17-18, will feature the likes of Ahmad Jamal, Cynthia Scott, Benny Green with Russell Malone, the Harlem Renaissance Orchestra, Los Hombres Calientes , the New Jazz Composers Octet, and many more (see the whole schedule at www.capemayjazz.org ).  A pass for the entire weekend of musical performances and special events costs $130.   Other types of passes are available, and some events are free.

 And Cape May is a great place to visit, with many high-quality restaurants and lodging ranging from high-rise hotels to bed and breakfasts to quaint and charming inns. I stayed at The Inn of Cape May, a converted house with broad, welcoming balconies, quaint Victorian décor and intriguing nooks and crannies ( www.innofcapemay.com ).  For more information about this attractive vacation spot, see www.capemaychamber.com .

  Happy traveling!

You may e-mail me at:

EGraham@photoandtravel.com